CV Boots on the Hyundai Elantra

November 20th, 2007

For some reason, I keep thinking that it’s better to spend 8 hours working on a vehicle than to drop it off somewhere and pay someone over $200 to do some work.

Anyway, last time I changed CV boots, I had to do 3 of them on my truck. I got all the tools, the parts, and the know how back then, so I thought I’d just go ahead and pick up a new boot kit and do the work Saturday night. Well, as usually happens with my projects, I run into something along the way that makes things take more time. All this applies to our 1999 Hyundai Elantra. (So if anyone finds this by searching, they can learn from my experience.)

The first thing that happened was me braking two lug bolts trying to get the wheel and hub nut off. Who ever heard of lug nuts that won’t come off? I don’t know why they were froze on there. I think that last time I had my tires rotated, the studs were damaged. Whatever the reason, they were stuck on there hard enough for my big 1/2 drive tire iron wrench to just break them off instead of unscrewing them. (I really tried not to break them by the way but they just wouldn’t unscrew.)

The next problem I had was that I couldn’t get the drive axel out. There are 5 bolts around the inner cv joint that came off on my truck. I took those out on the car but the axel still didn’t come out. all my prying and wiggling didn’t change anything.

I decided to just go ahead and change the boot while it was on still attached. No problem because I was changing the outer boot anyway and had already separated the outer axel from the hub (which was pretty easy compared to my truck. I didn’t even have to separate a ball joint or anything). After removing the old boot, I again became stumped at taking the CV joint apart. I gave up and put it all together since it was 11:00 pm by this time.

On Monday, I bought a service manual. I immediately discovered 3 things.

  1. You don’t have to take out the 5 bolts to get the drive axel out. Instead, you just pry the joint out of the transmission. I did that and it wasn’t really even that hard.
  2. You cannot take the outer CV Joint apart. This is the weirdest thing I’ve seen yet. The joint is pressed together instead of clipped. To change it, you have to remove the Inner joint, slide the boot over the axel to replace the outer boot, and then replace the inner boot again.
  3. Buying the service manual is worth the $18.

Well, I had to head back to the store yet again to get more clamps and new boot grease for the inner CV boot. The extra boot clamps I picked up for the inner boot were the kind that you crimp on. Those are easy and go on real tight. Unfortunately, the clamps that came with the boot kit for the outer joint were those universal clamps that are variable length and supposedly you pull tight with a pair of pliers while pushing with a screw driver. Those things really stink. If I wasn’t so tired of driving back to the auto store, I’d have gone and got some more crimp-on clamps. Instead, I wasted an extra 1/2 hour or so until I finally got the dumb universal clamps to work.

Well, this morning (Tuesday) I drove the car in with only two lug nuts holding the front wheel on. The service manual says that you have to have special tools to get the hub apart (which I would have had to do to replace the lug bolts) so I just took it into the local tire place who said they could do the job for $30 or so.

As my neighbor Brian pointed out in my last post about trees, this might should have been filed in the “I thought it was a good idea until…” category :) It could probably go in the “I’m to cheap to spend money on…” category. But Hey, I didn’t have to spend $200+ to have someone fix it for me!

Entry Filed under: Misc

7 Comments Add your own

  • 1. manny  |  December 12th, 2007 at 1:20 am

    Oh man, Thank you for posting this on your blog!!! I just spent 3 hours trying to disassemble my outer CV joint!! I was using a Haynes (they should change their name to Horrible) manual that showed a clip-ring holding the joint together…now I know what to do

  • 2. Peter  |  May 4th, 2008 at 6:05 pm

    Good tip about the outside CV being mounted permanently, I have to replace the boot on my 2003 Elantra, and was looking for any tips available.

    I totally agree with you on the 8hr/$200 to take the car away for relatively simple repairs. I’ve told my wife for years its worth it to lose a days labor to fix our vehicles myself. I always figure if I can do it in twice as much time as a mechanic, I’m saving as much as the average hourly shop time charge.

    Anyway, thanks for the heads up!

    Peter

  • 3. Enrique  |  June 4th, 2008 at 3:08 pm

    Hey by the way, there are a couple of useful Hyundai Elantra resources online:

    1. http://www.hmaservice.com is Hyundai’s official maintenance information website which has most of the repair manuals on it. Anyone can register and access it, you only need Internet Explorer 7 and Adobe’s SVG Viewer for diagrams, both free.

    2. ElantraClub.com, an active 5,000-member forum of Elantra owners, some with significant mechanical experience. (Well, maybe 150 come by regularly)

    3. ElantraXD.com is a forum devoted to the ElantraXD (2001-2006), but many of the components (e.g. drivetrain) are basically the same as the ’99’s. This one has almost 10,000 members and is also very active.

    Both of those forums would give you half a dozen replies by the end of the day if you asked a maintenance question. Come on by!

  • 4. dennis  |  June 9th, 2008 at 6:15 am

    Awesome resources! Thanks for the info Enrique.

  • 5. david  |  September 19th, 2008 at 6:21 pm

    thanks for sharing of you rexpirience, i just got huyndai with the riped cv boot and spend all day trying to figure ouy what to do
    thanks again

  • 6. Grego  |  April 12th, 2010 at 10:42 am

    I attempted to change the CV boot thinking it was going to be an easy job that could get done in a few hours. The drive axle nut was the hardest to get off. If I had used my brains the first time it would have been easier. Take the wheel off, take out the cotter pin and then put the wheel back on and lower the jack to put pressure on the tire and ground. This will enable you to unscrew the drive axle nut with about 200 ft. lbs of torque. After that it seemed easy but I could not get the cv knuckle that connects to the drive axle so I bought one of those E-Z boot repair kits and did a temporary fix with a boot that is split in half and comes as two pieces that you clip on the cv joint. I am still driving with the temp boot on two days later and my hands are all dirty as the grease got in the cracks of my hands and after much scrubbing wont get clean. Do you know what it is like working in an office job with these nasty looking hands? Will be going to an auto repair place to get the job done right sometime sooooon!

  • 7. dennis  |  April 18th, 2010 at 7:07 pm

    I love the box of 100 latex gloves I bought at the auto store last time I picked up some other parts. Good Bye grungy hands!.

Leave a Comment

Required

Required, hidden

Some HTML allowed:
<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Trackback this post  |  Subscribe to the comments via RSS Feed


Categories

Tags

Abi Ally arborvitae baby birthday chainsaw christmas christmas break clog cute cv boot drain drive axel flood flush funny hyundai elantra iMac Jed juniper leak Lydia matthew mess motorcycles party peach pine planting plumbing prayer presents red neck Santa Scott singing sledding snake snow plow Suburban sycamore Tim toilet trees water

Family

Friends

Sites I created

Links/Feeds